Elevate your climbing expertise: AMGA SPI Exam - where skills meet assessment. Reach new heights as a certified Single Pitch Instructor!
Season
Spring through Fall
Skill Level
Intermediate and advanced
Duration
2 days
Group Size
6
The SPI Assessment/Exam is two days in length (minimum of 16 hours assessment time) and takes place at a single-pitch climbing area where there is a selection of traditional lead routes of at least 5.6 difficulty and top rope routes of at least 5.8 difficulty. SPI assessments examine all aspects of institutional single-pitch climbing.
The SPI Assessment is organized into four distinct evaluation sessions: climbing movement, technical skills, teaching ability and group management skills. Day one examines candidates’ climbing movement skills and proficiency with technical systems including anchoring and assistance skills. On day two, the examiners may arrange for the participation of volunteer novice clients (non-paying) in order for the candidates to be able to instruct in a group setting. This is not required, but is a great benefit to the assessment process as the examiner can see candidates interact with real novice climbers and the examinees do not have to “pretend” to teach novice climbers who are actually other examinees on the assessment.
SPI examiners are responsible for creating a stress-free environment that brings out the best in candidates. Candidates must demonstrate that their technical and instructional skills meet the standards of AMGA Single Pitch Instructor certification.
Max Lurie - Alpine to the Max
With a degree in environmental science and a focus on glaciology, Max’s deep understanding of mountain environments is only matched by his passion for them. He began his career in 2012 in New Hampshire, where he became an EMT and started guiding. Moving west, he earned his American Mountain Guides Association certifications in both rock and alpine disciplines. In 2020, he founded Alpine to the Max, an AMGA-accredited guide service that now operates throughout Colorado. He also teaches professional avalanche education for Silverton Avalanche School. When not teaching or guiding, you can find him mountain biking in the desert southwest with his fiancée.
As of 2024, the AMGA has updated the assessment categories to refine the original 9 categories to a simpler and more relevant 5 categories. Elements of the previous assessment categories have been absorbed into the categories that remain. Additionally, there has been the development of a proficiencies list to better define the assessment categories in greater detail. Although the assessment categories are not an exact replica of the higher level AMGA mountain guide programs, they are similar in nature with subtle differences specific to single pitch instruction. For clarity the terms SPI Assessment and SPI Exam are interchangeable.
Candidates’ skills will be evaluated and graded on both days of the Assessment. Examiners will score each candidate at the end of each day, then revisit the scoring at the end of the exam to account for trends, consistency, and any contributing factors that may have affected any of the candidates. An assessment is based on the ability of candidates to provide a well-managed and rewarding experience for their clients. Failing to pass an assessment is typically an issue of risk management. Candidates are graded on their performance in 5 designated skill areas. These skills are divided into subcategories that better define those main skill areas. A summary scorecard will be generated from daily scores to determine whether to pass or fail a candidate. Personal interviews are held at the end of the exam where a verbal assessment will be given by the examiner(s). This is meant to help the candidates assess their own performance. The goal is to notify students of the outcome at the personal debrief. However, it is sometimes needed for the examiner(s) to check with the AMGA Climbing Instructor Program Manager prior to doing so. In these cases a phone call may be scheduled to notify the student of the result.
The AMGA SPI Exam is designed to assess the skills and knowledge of individuals seeking certification as Single Pitch Instructors. It evaluates their ability to effectively instruct clients on single-pitch climbs.
To be eligible for the exam, candidates must have completed the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course and met the prerequisites.
Two days. The SPI Exam spans two days of evaluation as the provider evaluates your skills and abilities based on the rubric.
Yes, candidates who do not pass the exam have the opportunity to retake it. It is essential to understand the areas of improvement and address them before attempting the exam again. Your examiner will provide through feedback and examples of what you can do to improve for next time.
Achieving AMGA SPI certification demonstrates a high level of proficiency in instructing single-pitch climbing. It opens doors to professional guiding opportunities, enhances safety standards, and provides a recognized qualification in the outdoor industry.
Alpine to the Max is an independent certified guide with more than a decade of experience in a wide variety of terrain. No matter your current skill level, when you climb with us you get a top-notch experience that is fully customized to meet your exact desires.
